The promise of hair shine, softness, body, and manageability is inherently tied to product performance. ¨ Furthermore, one must not ignore the process of() itself
shampooing
Almost without exception, shampoos consist of an ()()() of one or more surfactants together with some additives to enhance performance and aesthetic properties of the product.
aqueous solution, emulsion, or dispersion
are used to provide fragrance and color, thicken, opacify, and convey specific tactile attributes
Additives
They include stabilizers, foam modifiers, preservatives, conditioning, and antidandruff agents
Additives
long-chain electrolytes and are usually classified according to the nature of their hydrophilic group, which may be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, or cationic.
Surfactants
are salts of fatty acids and, not in the distant past, were the mainstay of shampoo products.
Soaps
In(), they lather copiously, cleanse well, and leave the hair in a well conditioned style. ¨ Unfortunately, in () the lather is poor, and as the soap combines with calcium or magnesium salts present in hard water it deposits on hair a dulling film.
soft water, hard water
The introduction of()surfactants brought about the end of soapbased shampoos, although some products still contain a small quantity of soap to exploit its conditioning property.
synthetic
are the most widely used anionic in shampoos, displaying excellent foaming and cleansing properties unaffected by hard water.
ALKYL SULFATES
is the dominate ingredient being present in most shampoo formulations in the form of its ammonium or triethanol ammonium salt at a level of 6 to 18% w/w
Lauryl sulfate
lthough very effective cleansers, the alkyl sulfates, particularly at high concentrations, have a tendency to() and remove some () constituents of hair cuticle
iirritate the scalp, lipid
To make the alkyl sulfate-based shampoos milder, they are frequently modified by incorporation of less-irritating alkyl ether sulfates or
amphoteric surfactants
are sulfated products of ethoxylated fatty alcohols. ¨ They are more water soluble than alkyl sulfates, are excellent solubilizers for fragrances and other oleophilic additives, and are particularly suitable for formulations of clear shampoos.
ALKYL ETHER SULFATES
Less irritating than the alkyl sulfates and are used, at a higher degree of ethoxylation, in baby shampoos.
ALKYL ETHER SULFATES
are complex mixtures resulting from sulfonation of alphaolefins.
ALPHA-OLEFIN SULFONATES
These detergents exhibit excellent foaming in the presence of sebum, are effective over a wide range of pH, and compare favorably with other surfactants in dermal and eye irritation
ALPHA-OLEFIN SULFONATES
Anionic Surfactants
Soaps
Alkyl Sulfates
Alkyl Ether Sulfates
Alpha-Olefin Sulfonates
Other type of surfactants: ¨ ()(). ¨ Both are very mild to the skin and, although the former are good Foamers and can be used in shampoo formulation, the latter are primarily used in combination with alkyl sulfates.
Alkyl monoglyceride sulfates and Alkyl sulfosuccinates
They are the mildest of surfactants. Although poor foamers, owing to their good solubilizing and dispersing properties, they have been extensively utilized to supplement the action of the primary cleanser
Nonionic Surfactants
are prepared by condensation of fatty acid (usually lauric) and primary or secondary alkanolamines.
Alkanolamides